Friday, January 20, 2012

Mini Lights - Understanding the Design and Assembly of the Three Wire Strings of Them

!±8± Mini Lights - Understanding the Design and Assembly of the Three Wire Strings of Them

Single strings of mini-lights help to decorate parties, special events, and holidays. Trying to understand their twisted 3-wire, 120-volt-alternating-current (VAC) assemblages can be difficult without foreknowledge. Actually, it is fairly simple. Here is how they are designed and put together.

Mini-light strings manufactured today.

Several lengths of mini-light strings (from 15-to-150-feet) are available to consumers today, each one holding a different number of clear or colored mini-bulbs. However, recent attempts to standardize the manufacture of these light strings has focused on making the 50-bulb sets that can either be used alone as one string, or can be pre-assembled into longer 100-to-150-bulb strings. Each completed string whatever its length has an electrical plug at each end like an extension cord. This standardization appears to be true both for the older tube-shaped incandescent lights (with their filaments sealed within the 3-mm-diameter bulbs) and the newer LED types (having light emitting diodes encased within the bulbs).

Currently, the newer LED strings are more expensive than the incandescent ones, but they use less electricity than the filament types. Still, the manufacturing of the shorter light strings of either kind having less than 50-bulbs is still done, and they can be found in the stores. But, they are not a major part of the current mass production of mini-lights.

Thus, each full-length string of any bulb-number will have a male plug at one end and a female plug at the other end. Also, these plugs are made so the individual strings can be stacked (two or three them plugged piggyback into each other at each end to make the total string longer) without causing electrical failure. The male plug of each string also has two small 3-amp buss fuses within it, one for each of its two main 120-volt wires. Yet these fuses will blow if the stacked strings get too lengthy or if too much wattage is drawn by them.

To illustrate the description of a 3-wire single-string of mini-lights, this article uses a 100-bulb string, which contains two 50-bulb sets pre-manufactured as one string. Each bulb in these two sets is rated at about 2.5-volts; i.e., 120-volts/50-bulbs = 2.4-volts/bulb.

Mini-light-string design and assemblage.

Basically, two of the wires on any three-wire mini-light string carries the household 120-volts of electricity from one end of the string to the other end similar to the way any extension cord does. The so-called third wire of this string holds all of the mini-bulbs and their sockets in succession a few inches apart. This so-called third wire holding the bulbs is in turn connected to the each of the two 120-volt wires in parallel.

That is, one end of this bulb wire is connected to the first of the two 120-volt wires at one end of the whole string. The other end is connected to the second 120-volt wire at the other end of the set further down the same string. For a 100-bulb string, a second set of 50-bulbs is connected to the two 120-volt wires the same way further down the string from the first set, where it functions independently from the first set. The finished string can be from 20-to-50-feet long, depending on the spacing between the bulbs.

These connections are hard to see simply by looking at the finished product because all three wires are twisted around each other to keep them in a tight rope-like string, leaving only the bulbs exposed. Yet, each of these two sets is parallel to the 120-voltage because they draw their electricity from the side of those two wires, which allows them to work independently of each other.

Another advantage of these parallel connections is the electricity itself continues to flow through the main two wires from one-end plug to the other end-plug if one or both bulb sets fail for any reason. As a result, when a 100-bulb light string begins to show unlit bulbs, these failed bulbs could appear in either one or both sets. For example, one 50-bulb set could have all or only a few of its lights not working, while the second set could show all of its bulbs lit okay because each set operates separately from the other one. Since the electricity is still flowing in the latter example (several lights are still working), some of the bulbs in the failing set need to be replaced.

To see the diagrams and photos of these mini-light strings, see this site.


Mini Lights - Understanding the Design and Assembly of the Three Wire Strings of Them

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Saturday, January 14, 2012

120 Car Truck SUV Low Profile Mini Blade Fuse Lot

!±8± 120 Car Truck SUV Low Profile Mini Blade Fuse Lot

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Thursday, January 12, 2012

When to Apply Lime to Your Lawn

!±8± When to Apply Lime to Your Lawn

Before you know if you need to apply lime to your lawn, you need to know the pH level of your soil. The pH level will indicate either your lawn soil is too acidic or alkaline. The pH level range from 1.0 to 14.0. A value of 1.0 indicate extreme acidity and a value of 14.0 indicates extreme alkaline. A desirable or balanced pH level is in the middle of 6.5 and 7.0. If your lawn soil has a pH level in this range, your grasses will grow healthily and there is less opportunity of weeds growing. If the pH level of your lawn soil is less than 6.5, it is acidic and you have to add lime to bring it back to balance.

In general, when there is an increase in rainfall, the acidity of your soil will also increase. Other factors that can cause acidity consist of irrigating with water that has a high acid article and decomposition of organic matter.

You can purchase a soil test kit from your nearest nursery or garden center to test your lawn soil pH. However, the test effect will only tell you if your soil is acidic or alkaline. You will not know how much lime is required to bring the soil back to balance. A good alternative is to send a soil sample to a soil test lab for testing. You can look up the yellow pages to find one that is located in your vicinity. Once the soil test is completed by the lab, you will receive a narrative with an exact analysis of your soil chemistry and composition. There should be a section in the narrative indicating the number of lime you need to apply to your lawn.

There are a few type of lime ready in the market. The most tasteless type being pulverized limestone, which is relatively inexpensive. an additional one type is dolomitic limestone, which consist of magnesium. This is used when the soil test indicates that your soil is low in magnesium. The more expensive type of lime is pelletized limestone, which is cleaner and easier to apply. When applying time, you should use a rototiller to work the lime into the soil for best result.

You can apply lime any time while the growing season but not when the grasses are wilted or frost covered. Do not apply fertilizer immediately after a lime application. Give the lime about two weeks to improve the soil before applying fertilizer. If you have a new lawn, you should apply the lime before planting any seed.

A soil test should be done every three to four years. Apply lime to your soil only when the test effect indicates such necessity. Too much lime will cause your soil pH to go off balance, which will lead to other lawn problems. As long as you are able to voice a balanced pH level for your soil, your lawn will have a easier time to grow healthily.


When to Apply Lime to Your Lawn

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